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“At 9, with her stew more reduced than any set of freedoms could ever be, she decides she fancies a baked potato with it. We sit down an hour later and something about the lateness of the meal prompts her to bring up the family 'holidays' they used to take down in Devon. (She puts the word in scare quotes because as far as she's concerned a woman's work was never done.) She says there was something magical about those holidays, now that she thinks about it. 'We bought that cottage for fourteen grand. You couldn't get a back door for that money nowadays. But that's what happens. Things change. I mean, look at me. If I found myself in the back of the fridge I wouldn't think twice about throwing myself out.' I ask if she worries about getting old. She snorts. At the question's stupidity. 'The trouble with death,' she says, 'is that it stops you doing things.” — Ben Aitken