“You were required — this was essential, a matter of survival — to know your limits, both physical and emotional. But how could you know your limits unless you tested them? And if you failed the test? You were also required to stay calm if things went wrong. Panic was the first step, everybody said, to drowning.”
Quote by William Finnegan
Work
Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life
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Author
William Finnegan
William Finnegan, born in 1952, is an accomplished American writer known for his in-depth investigative reporting and profound insights into social phenomena. His works are characterized by their focus on political, social, and moral issues, showcasing exceptional narrative skills and critical thinking. more
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