“Surfing is an individual expression of one's own worth and one's own ability to participate directly with nature. And what makes it really enjoyable to me is that every wave is different... there's a special, non-repetitive pleasure in it that never gets boring.” DifferentIndividualAbilityPleasureSpecialExpressionWaveBoringSurfingEnjoyableRepetitiveIndividual Expression Author:Otis Chandler
