“The idea is to become an old wizard; to live a long and fruitful life and have family and be healthy and enjoy the ride. And speaking of the ride, why not let it rip, at least a little bit? Everyone I know who's really stoked about getting out of bed in the morning does that to some extent.”
Quote by Laird Hamilton
Work
Force of Nature: Mind, Body, Soul (And, of Course, Surfing)
This book delves into the profound connection between the human spirit and the ocean, using surfing as a metaphor for life's journey. It examines the physical, mental, and spiritual aspects of surfing, offering insights into personal growth and self-discovery. more
Author
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