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Quote by Marcel Nickler

“The more you put into whatever your passion is or what brings you joy, what you receive grows exponentially because all the aspects, both little and large, that you work on improving, when you add them all together, the sum is so much bigger than the parts.”

Quote by Marcel Nickler

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Marcel Nickler

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“For most surfers, I think—for me, certainly—waves have a spooky duality. When you are absorbed in surfing them, they seem alive. They each have personalities, distinct and intricate, and quickly changing moods, to which you must react in the most intuitive, almost intimate way—too many people have likened riding waves to making love. And yet waves are of course not alive, not sentient, and the lover you reach to embrace may turn murderous without warning. It’s nothing personal. That self-disemboweling death wave on the inside bar is not bloody-minded. Thinking so is just reflex anthropomorphism. Wave love is a one-way street.”

PassionChallengeSurfing
Book:Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life
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