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This Raging Light

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Estelle Laure

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“The nights now are full of wind and destruction; the trees plunge and bend and their leaves fly helter skelter until the lawn is plastered with them and they lie packed in gutters and choke rain pipes and scatter damp paths. Also the sea tosses itself and breaks itself, and should any sleeper fancying that he might find on the beach an answer to his doubts, a sharer of his solitude, throw off his bedclothes and go down by himself to walk on the sand, no image with semblance of serving and divine promptitude comes readily to hand bringing the night to order and making the world reflect the compass of the soul. The hand dwindles in his hand; the voice bellows in his ear. Almost it would appear that it is useless in such confusion to ask the night those questions as to what, and why, and wherefore, which tempt the sleeper from his bed to seek an answer.”

“Não havia ali ninguém. As suas palavras desvaneceram-se. Como um foguete se desvanece. As suas fagulhas, tendo traçado uma trajetória luminosa na noite, entregam-se a ela, a escuridão desce, derrama-se sobre os contornos das casas e torres; colinas sombrias a ruírem e a esfumarem-se. Mas apesar de ocultas, a noite continua cheia delas; privadas de cor, destituídas de janelas, existem mais intensamente, exprimem aquilo que a luz do dia não consegue transmitir - a inquietação a expectativa das coisas amontoadas na escuridão: aconchegadas nas trevas; despojadas do alívio que o amanhecer lhes traz quando, ao lavar as paredes de branco e cinza, ao salientar cada janela, ao erguer a neblina dos campos, mostrando as vacas vermelho-acastanhadas pacificamente a pastar, tudo volta a ser desvendado perante o olhar; tudo volta à vida.”

“Iris's favorite item at Tenta is anago, sea eel. Unlike its freshwater cousin unagi, anago is neither endangered nor expensive. A whole anago at Tenta is about $7.50. I ordered one, and the chef pulled a live eel out of a bucket. It wriggled like, well, an eel. Iris screamed as water droplets flew toward us. The chef managed to wrestle the unruly thing into the sink and knocked it unconscious before driving a spike into its head and filleting it. He unzipped two fillets in seconds. A Provençal saying holds that a fish lives in water and dies in oil; in the world of tempura, a fish can go from watery cradle to oily grave in ten seconds. Iris loved fried eel meat, dipped in salt, but this is not her favorite part of the anago. After filleting the eel, the chef takes its backbone- hone in Japanese- ties it in a simple overhand knot, and tosses it into the frying oil. "Hone," he says, presenting it to Iris, who considers it the ultimate in crispy snack food- and this is a kid who considers taco-flavored Doritos a work of genius (OK, so do I).”

“In the U.S., to have a personal relationship with a Japanese chef across the counter, you have to go for sushi. I enjoy sitting at a sushi bar, but there is always the whiff of haute cuisine in the air (or, if you pick the wrong sushi place, the whiff of something worse). You can visit an expensive, artisan counter in Tokyo and order unusual and impeccable seafood, but come on: tempura is fried stuff. You drink frothy mugs of cheap beer and call for more food any time you like. Bacon-wrapped cherry tomatoes on a stick, tempura-fried? Sure, we had that. A bowl of dozens of whole baby sardines, called shirasu? Absolutely. (Iris claimed these for herself.) Why aren't there tempura bars in every city in America?”

“The restaurant Muromachi Sunaba, opened in 1869, is considered the pioneer of chilled soba with tempura. Their fame came from their version served with a side of tempura Shiba shrimp. Miss Kinokuni's dish is similar. Though instead of the strong umami of Shiba shrimp, she chose to make her tempura from the smaller, sweeter and more refined sakura shrimp. A wise choice, as its delicate flavor pairs exceptionally well with the mild and fragile sweetness of her soba noodles! Once you take a bite, it is precisely that combination that makes it impossible to stop! The sublimely smooth and refreshing texture of the noodles combined with the sweet crunch of the sakura shrimp envelops the taster in a cocoon of delicious bliss... ... making it seem as if they've eaten the entire dish in only a single bite!”